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RESEARCH
The following article appeared in the Tampa Bay Fossil Chronicles during the mid 1990s.
FOSSIL COLLECTING IN FLORIDA'S RIVERS
As most fossil collectors are aware, Florida is well known for having a great abundance of fossils compared to other states in our country. This reputation is due in part to the discoveries made during the phosphate mining and other quarrying activities, but a similar large number of fossils is found in Florida's many waterways, including rivers, springs, creeks and coastal areas.
Underwater fossils may be of increasing interest to the collector since access to land sites is becoming more and more limited to the private individual. In recent years we have seen nearly all the phosphate mines become off limits to almost everyone acting on an individual basis, and it is becoming increasingly difficult even for formal groups and clubs to obtain permission to hunt these areas.
Fortunately, with certain limitations, it is still possible to hunt underwater fossils located on submerged state lands, which includes most of Florida's rivers and coasts and many creeks and springs. Total, precise, utterly clear legality of fossil hunting on state lands may sometimes be somewhat of a grey area rather than black and white, but generally speaking state lands may be hunted if you obtain a permit from the Florida State Museum in Gainesville and observe the rules regarding its use.
The permit costs five dollars, is good for a year, and requires that the collector turn in once a year a detailed list of fossils collected with locations. All collected fossils are property of the state, but if the museum personnel make no requests to review any material within 60 days of receiving the list, the fossils may be disposed of by the collector in any manner so desired. As it turns out, the museum paleontologists rarely request an item, since their coffers are well stocked with representative Florida fossils, but if they do they usually offer a cast to take it's place along with a donation certificate.
Federal lands such as national forests, game preserves and bird sanctuaries usually are off limits, as well as state parks and other specially protected lands which are overseen by other authorities or offices. In actual practice the rules are not consistent and one may be allowed to collect in some areas and not in others, depending upon the personnel present at the time. When in doubt, it's always best to ask first in order to be safe.
The earliest pioneers in river diving for fossils and artifacts were John Goggins from the University of Florida and the legendary Benjamin Waller, recently deceased of Ocala. These two began exploring Florida's rivers and streams in the l950s and were soon joined by Jarl Malwin of Venice and Kenny Howe of Brooksville, who started diving the south Withlacoochee in l958. In the early l960s Dr. Malwin joined Ben Waller and began diving steadily in the Santa Fe, Chipola and south Withlacoochee. Other early divers were Bill Mac Adoo of Sarasota, Jack Hill of Venice, Tom "River Tom" Greenhaught of Branford, Alvin Hendricks of Macintosh, Bill Franklin of Ocala and Dale Stone who had the first dive shop in the area west of High Springs.
Collectors who are accustomed to hunting only land surfaces may be disappointed to learn that underwater fossils are rarely found in articulation and it is almost (but not quite) unheard of to find an entire skeleton in one place. Usually this is due to frequent water movement during the millennia which scattered the bones over wide areas. Occasionally, in areas where there has been no water movement such as sinkholes, or in instances where the bones have just begun to erode from clays or sands, there are exceptions. On the other hand, usually when one finds a river fossil, it's like a gift! All that is necessary to do in order to collect it is to simply pick it up and put it in the bag. No laborious chipping away of rock hard matrix (a la Nebraska!), messy casting or heaving carrying. Again, there may be exceptions.
Stabilization of the fossil after removal is always a good idea and sometimes may be required in order not to lose the specimen. Occasionally, a piece that comes out of the river may appear to be perfectly hard and solid, but after a week of drying it may flake apart at the slightest touch. Nearly everyone agrees that Butvar is the best stabilizer, but if it is too fragile to risk drying out, give it a thin solution of white glue while it is still wet.
No special equipment or investment beyond basic SCUBA is required to be successful in hunting fossils in rivers. On the contrary, probably even less is needed than for salt water. Since compared to open water diving the river depths are shallow, depth gauges and computers are just extra burdens. Again, shallow depths allow for unlimited down time, and I know some hard-core hunters who burn five or more tanks in a long day. I find fins to be much more of a hinderance than a help, and you may wish to add a bit more weight to keep you stable while exerting yourself on the bottom. My total working weight, which includes a belt and lead backpack, is about 44 pounds. This sounds like a lot, but even with this amount I occasionally find myself in a spot where I would like to have more.Some river divers find it convenient to use extra knee and elbow pads and protection for their wet suits, since the rock bottom soon wears holes at friction points.
Like anything else, over the long run your rewards from the river will be proportionate to the time and effort invested. When you go to the river on a given day, you may or may not find that perfect 5 humper mastodon tooth; but it is certain that you won't find it if you don't get in the water and look! There are those who spend 30 minutes diving and an hour in the boat talking and drinking coffee, and there are others who come up only to change tanks or deposit bones in the boat. Granted, there is such a thing as an element of luck, but if you make a list of the most successful river divers, you will see that these are the people who work the hardest, have the most down time and go most often. If you spend time in the river, I guarantee you will find fossils!
In subsequent issues of the Tampa Bay Fossil Chronicles we will examine some of the more popular fossil-producing streams, noting special characteristics and also the points of access most available to the diver. Special attention will be given the Alafia, South Withlacoochee, Santa Fe, Suwannee and North Withlacoochee, with mention of the Wekeiva, Wacassasa, Oklawaha, Peace, Hillsborough and Rainbow.
THE ALAFIA
The Alafia has a great advantage in than it is conveniently close to Tampa and one can be there in minutes instead of the hours required for the Santa Fe or Suwanee. Drawbacks are that it has few points of easy access, it is small and shallow with many underwater obstacles to ding your prop and it has been heavily worked (as, unfortunately, have most of the major streams). Being rather short and near the coast, it is a tidal river and depth fluctuates greatly according to the tides in Tampa Bay.
The lower reaches of the river have heavy deposits of sand and muddy banks, making fossil hunting difficult. Also, along the lower end it is not a pretty river due to the nearly solid line of houses jammed right up on the water's edge. There are lots of bottles, tires and junk on the bottom in this section which leaves one with the impression of a trashy river, which it is in this area. Upstream, however, as one approaches Bell Shoals Road and above, it narrows considerably and becomes a beautiful, isolated rural stream with meadows, chirping birds, butterflies and cows in an idyllic pastoral setting. I have often spent 8 or 9 tranquil, solitary hours in the water here without seeing a single boat pass. In this area the river has a different personality with a clean gravel and limestone bottom.
Although the Alafia gives the impression of a peaceful, rather slow moving stream, there is evidence that this has not always been so. Most of the rocks and fossils have a smooth, glossy, shiny surface so characteristic of those coming from the Suwanee, quite likely caused by the polishing action of the coarse, brown river gravel. Curiously, this rather distinct gravel is found in both waterways in spite of the considerable distance separating them. Also, a large percentage of the objects are broken as if powerful, cataclysmic floods had wreaked havoc upon them.
Viewed from our short lifespan of a few decades, it may be hard to believe such natural phenomena could ever occur, but we must remember how great the climatic variations have been over the millennia. Also, the Alafia has long stretches of relatively high banks coupled with a very narrow channel which would project large quantities of flood waters through a small area with tremendous force instead of expending its energies by spreading these waters out horizontally over a wider area. Remember that not many years ago, some areas of the Alafia drainage basin received approximately twenty-four inches of rain within just a few hours. One resident whose house is constructed on a thirty-five foot bank overlooking the river told me that the water came within a few inches of her doorway. Forces such as these rearrange the topography of the river bottom, exposing or concealing fossils.
In spite of the large percentage of broken fossils in this river, those that have survived are often very hard and solid and quite attractive due to the high polish. The colors may also be quite good, varying from black to light brown and with considerable whiteness in tooth enamel. I have one small section of tapir maxillary with two molars displaying colors ranging from blue, white, and black to rust. This, coupled with its hardness and high natural polish, makes it an attractive piece. Overall (unscientific) impressions seem to indicate that there is an unusually high percentage of elephant and bison fossils in the Alafia.
Best access for a powered boat is the excellent public ramp near the foot of Kings Avenue northeast of Riverview. From Tampa go south on I-75 and take the HWY 301 South exit to Bloomingdale Avenue; then go east to Kings Avenue and turn south until the road turns west (right) and then follow it a few blocks to the boat ramp. Approaching Bell Shoals Road (the first bridge crossing the river going upstream from the boat ramp) and beyond you must have a light, shallow-draft boat, and even then, if the tide is out, watch your prop and be prepared to drag the boat across the shallows.
Above Bell Shoals Road I have hunted in vain for a place to back a trailer to the water's edge. There are three points of access, but none has a trailer ramp: the Alafia River Canoe Rental (813-689-8645, a good place to call to check river visibility before making the trip) is located on Hwy 640 southeast of Brandon just before the highway crosses the river; Lithia Springs Park, whose entrance is off Hwy 640 just east of the river; and Alderman Ford Park, which is located about a mile north of the intersection of highways 640 and 39. Since I usually dive alone, and since carrying heavy SCUBA gear, canoes and boat motors up and down steep river banks by myself is not my idea of fun, I try to avoid canoe drops with no trailer ramps.
Visibility in the Alafia varies according to conditions, as it is with most of Florida's rivers. During normal wet summers it will probably be dark, but it usually clears up during the fall, winter and spring. An incoming tide may bring murky water, changing water clarity from excellent to bad within minutes, even miles inland from Tampa Bay. Being small and shallow and lacking lots of springs, it quickly becomes cold in the winter, but by the same token will warm up quickly after a few days of warm weather.
THE SOUTH WITHLACOOCHEE
The south Withlacoochee, a fairly long river with its headwaters in the Green Swamp, is a fine fossil producing stream. As with some other rivers, much of it was worked with pumps and dredges a considerable number of years ago but there are still many areas which contain good fossils. It is a fairly slow moving stream which seems seldom to flood, or at least much less so than other rivers. For this reason the sand and bottom topography changes very little, unlike the Santa Fe and Suwanee where strong water movement is constantly covering and exposing new areas.
The south Withlacoochee is interesting in that it cuts through Pliocene and Miocene deposits which produce interesting vertebrate material. Small miocene sloths are fairly common and the giant Aepycamelus (giraffe camel), rhinos, gomphotheres and the rare Hemicyon (early bear) may be found here, unlike in most fossil-producing Florida streams.
The lack of current, caused by the dam which forms Lake Rousseau, is also a hinderance to visibility, especially in silt laden areas where, once stirred up by fanning, the sediments simply hang in a cloud instead of being carried away. I have been in areas near Dunnellon when the water was crystal clear but with totally no water movement whatever.
Generally speaking, conditions improve as one moves upriver from Dunnellon, but many stretches are slowly being choked by heavy growth of weeds, lily pads and water hyacinths. Many areas which were clear fifteen years ago are today clogged with aquatic plants. Fossils from this river are almost always black in color and may sometimes be softer than desirable. Those found in light colored Miocene clays may be a light to yellowish brown.
Access to the Withlacoochee is better than average. A good public ramp to visit is the one just downstream from the Hwy 200 bridge on the west bank. From here you can go either up or down the river for a good distance. Downstream there are lots of houses on the river, but upstream very few. Just a few hundred yards above the Hwy 200 bridge is a deep hole where the State took out many fine and interesting fossils several years ago. About a half mile above the bridge there is a small area of rapids and an island where you may have to drag the boat through the shallows. Other than this spot, powered boats are fine in both directions but there are frequent shallow spots, rocks and logs, so go slow!
The next public ramp upstream is located at Turner's Fish Camp at the end of Hwy 581. I have fond memories of this stretch of river since it was here that Tampa Bay Fossil Club member Paul Lien first taught me to dive in August of 1977. This is an interesting area since it was near the center of considerable aboriginal activity and there are many shell mounds and middens scattered along the banks. A large village was located about a mile downstream near the mouth of Gum Slough. If you feel strong and adventuresome, it is possible to take a canoe several miles up Gum Slough but you will definitely have to pull the boat over lots of logs and quite likely have to contend with yellowjackets and perhaps snakes. Powered boats will have no trouble up and down river from Turner's.
Progressing upstream there are also boat ramps at Hwys 44 and 48 and at Hog Island off Hwy 476. Of these, I have dived only at Hwy 44 and found no current or water movement, and it seems to be similar at the other two. The river is diveable near the ramp at Silver Lake, but this is the last access point with a boat ramp. At Lacoochee, under the bridge on Hwy 575, it is possible to drop your canoe and go up or downstream. There is also a Canoe Outpost just below the bridge here, and it may be of interest to note that old Fort Dade was located just a short distance below this establishment. Many bottles and other fort-period artifacts have been found in the river in this area. At this point the river is very small and narrow, but at least it flows swiftly compared to downstream sections.
THE SANTA FE Queen Mother of all fossil rivers
The Santa Fe River in north central Florida is considered the mother of all Florida rivers for artifacts and fossils. One of the first rivers to be systematically worked by the early river divers, it has continued to produce like no other riverine fossil source in the state. Earliest divers in this river were Ben Waller, late of Ocala, Dr. Jarl Malwin of Venice, River Tom and Dale Stone. The Santa Fe is a very changeable river and the sand is never still for very long. I have been told that this river floods from both directions. During times of heavy local rains, the direction of flood flow is from upstream to down, as might be expected. But at the same time, it frequently happens that heavy rains north in the Suwannee basin may make the Suwannee River rise and push water upstream from the confluence of the two rivers, thus moving sand and bottom material in the opposite direction.
Whether this is true or not, it is a fact that the bottom changes very often in this river. You may find an area has changed completely from one week to the next. Hollows and dips that were once full of leaves and sand may be swept bare on your next trip, with a bottom topography so different that you may not recognize the area. This is why the Santa Fe keeps producing fossils year after year, and why it is never wise to assume that an area is "worked out." Another factor contributing to a changing river is that fact that the weeds growing from the bottom may sometimes die over the winter and disappear by spring. This of course alters the flow of water which again moves different areas of sand, exposing and covering alternately.
Visibility varies a great deal in the Santa Fe. Most years it will be clear from early winter through June or July, but it may be either clear or dark at any given day of year, dependent entirely upon the rainfall at the time. When clear, it is among Florida's most beautiful of rivers for the diver, with its predominant green and yellow hues with frequent bluish white areas from the abundant springs found all along its course. The current is normally fairly swift, being in the category of the upper Suwannee and the North Withlacoochee, considerably faster than the South Withlacoochee, Alafia and Peace Rivers. Especially in the shallower areas it is helpful to wear plenty of weight and to use a hook or scratcher to catch in cracks to avoid being moved about with little or no control.
The uppermost stretch of the Santa Fe which has been extensively worked starts in River Rise State Park where the river emerges from it's underground sojourn in O'Leno State Park. Above O'Leno (or, above I-75) the river contains so much sand and silt and there is so little current that it is difficult to work. There is a good public boat ramp on Hwy 41 (25, 441) just north of High Springs on the west side of the road on the south side of the river. This ramp is free to the public, but there is also a place on the north side of the river, again on the west, where a canoe or small boat may be launched. There is also a commercial canoe rental on the south side of the river, but I would recommend the public boat ramp instead.
From the public boat ramp it is difficult for power boats to travel downstream because of a large, long shallow area usually full of weeds. Getting downstream in not too bad, but getting back upstream to the boat ramp usually means wading and pulling the boat through heavy weeds. Not much fun. If you are really serious about diving this down-river stretch, it is much easier to put in at the next access point off Hwy 27 and then to go upstream to the rapids.
Power boats may go upstream from the boat ramp with little difficulty from shallow water, but here you will probably find that there are large tree trunks and branches blocking the channel, and a canoe or small jon-boat will have a much easier time of it than a larger boat. The river is rather small and narrow here and lined with large trees which keep most of the stream in shadows. There are fewer springs in this area also, and both of these factors usually limit the visibility somewhat, compared to farther downstream. In spite of this it is a worthwhile stretch of river that has produced some fine vertebrate fossils in the past.
A relatively new boat ramp is located on the north side of Hwy 27 just west of High Springs on the west side of the river. From here power boats may go up or down stream for a considerable distance with no problems if the river flow is normal. When very low, however, there is a difficult shallow spot a short distance upstream from the ramp. This set of rapids, as is often the case on the Santa Fe, was a Paleoindian kill site where a considerable number of paleo points have been found. Farther up and marked on the topo maps is a large syphon or suck hole on the north bank of the river. One should take care here, but it is highly visible with a considerable stream running off toward the bank. Water entering here is discharged about a half mile downstream as a giant spring in the center of the channel, and the location is usually discernable as a large boil in the river.
The next point of entry on the river below the Highway 27 boat ramp is Poe Springs, accessed off Highway 340 west of High Springs. This is a new and very nice public park which only recently boasts a new boat ramp. Very early risers will be inconvenienced because the park does not open until 8'clock, thus shortening the day for those who simply must be in the water at first light (the time of day when the river is most appealing, as a select few of you hard core hunters already know!). This boat ramp facilitates access to this part of the river which often can't be reached by power boat from Highway 27 because of a large shoal area just upstream from the park. Only during high water can this area be traversed without danger to your boat prop.
Downstream a short distance from Poe Springs Park is the boat ramp at Rum Island. To find this excellent ramp, go west of High Springs on Highway 27 and turn left on County Road 138. About two miles from this intersection turn left on Rum Island Road and go about a mile and a half on a bumpy, washboardy road until you reach the river. The Columbia County Parks department recently made an attractive park area and new boat ramp here, and it is open from sunrise to sundown. This stretch of river has produced many excellent finds and continues to be a popular area for divers.
Just a few yards downstream from Rum Island one can see the run from Blue Springs, entering the river from the south. There is a commercial campground and picnic area at the headsprings, which is a beautiful spot with nice facilities, but there is no boat launch area and the establishment does not cater to divers. For that go a short distance downstream to Ginnie Springs, the largest, best outfitted commercial dive center for the entire river and the best in the Southeast. Large signs on Highways 340 and 47 make it easy to follow the road to Ginnie, which has been around a long time and is now under the able management of Mr. Robert Clemmons.
Ginnie Springs has an international reputation for recreational diving and if cave exploration is your thing (it's not mine!), they offer a unique underground system of springs and caverns which is unmatched. Their above ground facilities are equally outstanding: they have a full service dive shop, excellent air, and the best campground on the Santa Fe with many secluded campsites, some on the riverbank just a few feet from the water. Making this establishment more attractive is the fact that this stretch of river is perhaps the most beautiful to be found along the Santa Fe, with several major, crystal clear springs on both sides of the stream. Ginnie also has the most user-friendly boat ramp on the entire river with a very shallow incline and sufficient water to float your boat even when the river is low.
Probably due in part to the many springs in this area, this stretch of river has been one of the most prolific producers of artifacts and fossils found in the Santa Fe, and it still yields interesting finds. Near Ginnie is where Ben Waller first discovered his Titanis walleri or giant bird, and in the spring of l994 an excellent Equus hoof core and articulated phalanges, a tiny perfect antilope metacarpal as well as three baby mammoth teeth came from the river here, the teeth within a stone's throw of the boat ramp.
Not far below Ginnie power boaters may have a problem with Dunegan's Mill, a treacherous rapids (the worst on the river) which can break your leg as well as your boating equipment if you are not careful to show proper respect to the river. I have seen Fish and Wildlife officers power through here at cruise speed, but you must know exactly where the boulders are or risk major damage to your boat and prop. I strongly suggest going to the next ramp downstream and heading back upriver instead of negotiating the rapids, either under power or by wading. Dunegan's is another set of shoals which produced many paleo points during the early exploration of the river.
Below Ginnie there are seven more access points before the Santa Fe reaches the Suwanee. The first is a relatively new boat ramp on the south side of the river on the east side of Highway 47. Just downstream is Hollingsworth Bluff, which lies at the end of a short road which is the first road north of the river departing Highway 47 on the west. Below that is Wilson Springs, an easy boat ramp on private property. There are signs posted there, but I have spoken to one or two property owners who say those are for late night party beer drinkers, and I have used the ramp for 17 years with no problems. Wilson is reached by going west of Fort White on Hyw for five miles and turning left and following the road to the river.
Below Wilson is Oasis boat ramp, formerly known as the Ira Bee. Turn left on Hwy 138 just south of the Santa Fe River bridge on Hwy 47. Go west for about seven miles, turn right and go until you see the boat ramp sign. This is a treacherous ramp and if the river is low you may have trouble if diving alone because the trailer axel may drop off the concrete. There are three rapids close to Oasis, one by an island about 1 mile upstream, another just below the ramp and another just below that one. This last one (Ben Waller's famous Santa Fe 1 Paleo kill site) is the last difficult shallow spot on the river.
The remaining ramps are one on Hwy 49, another at Sandy Point Fish camp, and the last at a fish camp just below Sandy Point a mile and a half off Highway 138.
THE SUWANNEE
Immortalized in Stephen Foster's song and Florida's second largest river, the Suwanee is undoubtedly the best known of all the rivers in the state, and several books have been written about it. The river has its origin in the great Okefenokee Swamp in southern Georgia and empties into the gulf near the tiny village of Suwannee in Dixie County, north of Cedar Key.
Of interest to the fossil collector is the fact that the fossils from the Suwannee are almost always very hard and shiny, usually quite dark, and may have various shades of orange-red tints. Some of Florida's most beautiful mastodon teeth have been found here, rivaling or surpassing even the snow white teeth from springs. The distinctive orange color can sometimes be a giveaway: I once found two mastodon teeth lying out in the open on a very heavily dived shoals, each with just a thumbnail sized spot of orange showing through the black stain and deposits which otherwise gave them the appearance of nondescript rocks.
The distinctive shine often present on the fossils and artifacts is likely due to the combination of swift current and abundant coarse brown sand and fine gravel. This same phenomenon which so nicely polishes the fossils may, however, result in considerable erosion and loss of detail, in artifacts and well as in fossils.
The Suwannee is often a more difficult dive than the rivers previously included in this series of articles. The river is wide and the bottom topography can be abrupt and rough. Because of the size and width of the river, it may appear deceptively tranquil and placid but the current is usually quite powerful. Some divers who seldom wear a BC will do so here because the banks are not always climbable underwater. It is not uncommon to find, at the moment one wishes to exit the river, that the gently sloping bank where one entered has now become a perpendicular wall of rock and may even be hollowed out, forming a shallow cave. It is always wise to plan your exit well before your air supply is low, but especially so in the Suwannee.
Another hazard to be aware of is the possibility of small caves with water flowing into them. I have seen these only near to and upstream from shoals and rapids, but they may exist in other places. If you detect water movement in deep pockets and trenches, be alert to see if the current flows seemingly into the wall. This same phenomenon also occurs in the North Withlacoochee.
Although some excellent fossil finds have been made in the upper reaches, the Suwannee has produced the most material from the area of Ellaville downstream. The nearby Suwannee River State Park has a good boat ramp but does not open until 8 o'clock and it closes at dusk. From here one may go upstream or up the North Withlacoochee, but only for about a mile downstream because of a large set of rapids. A small boat may traverse these shoals with some difficulty (I have done it alone many times) but a larger boat is definitely a problem. It is possible to run the rapids with a power boat, especially if the river is high, but I do not recommend it.
Between Ellaville and Interstate 10 there are several major rapids and a canoe is the easiest way to travel. There is a difficult bank access just upstream from the Interstate bridge on the south side of the river (never again!!) from which this stretch of river may be worked, otherwise one must go downstream all the way to Dowling Park and come back upstream, about 12 or 13 miles. The area from Dowling Park to below Luraville has easy access, several less difficult shoals and has been popular with both artifact and fossil divers in the past. There are many, many boat ramps from Luraville downstream and any area is a potentially good producer. I might mention that the private ramp at Suwannee Gables near Old Town charged $8.00 plus tax in l994. Not far downstream at Manatee Springs the ramp is free. There is an active dive shop in Branford which has been in business many years and another in Luraville, which at latest word, is now closed.
At any rate the Suwannee River is still an excellent bet for finding fossils today. All of Florida's rivers have been worked extensively, but the Suwannee is so large that there is so much more bottom surface to be hunted, which is advantageous to the collector.